What is the pattern cutting “block method”?

And more importantly, why should you favour this method to buying commercial patterns?

A pattern block is a basic shape that fits perfectly; it has no seam or hem allowance, and no design details. It’s a starting “block”. Below is the close fitting bodice block.

Basic blocks include the bodice, outerwear, skirt, trouser and sleeve blocks. There are also variations on the basic blocks in terms of close or loose fitting.

Basic adaptations of these blocks like the 2 piece sleeve block, or a princess seam bodice could still be considered blocks, but any more adaptations than that would be considered a “pattern” rather than a “block”.

So why pattern cut from blocks?

Using blocks means that you don’t need to re-invent the wheel each time you want to make something. By that, I mean you’re not having to take body measurements, or do lots of fitting adjustments each time you come up with a new design.

Once you have your (starting) blocks:-

• You can design anything you like

• It will fit you perfectly

You literally can design anything. Once you’ve drafted the appropriate basic block, and you’ve fitted it and done any necessary adjustments, you’ll know that any pattern you make from it will fit perfectly.

Adjusting a commercial pattern isn’t easy, as it will already have style lines, shaped seams, panels, specific necklines, ease and fullness, seam allowance etc… Trying to adjust a complicated commercial pattern can be a can of worms!

Once you’ve drafted your blocks, which you can use forever unless you change size, you can learn the new skill of adapting patterns. There are only a few fundamental techniques to learn, the real skill is learning when to use which technique, and which combination you’ll need for your design.

Pattern cutting is such a fun and creative hobby to learn, don’t let the idea of the maths part put you off, only very basic maths is involved, and my YouTube tutorials guide you through, with every calculation explained along the way.

I’ve seen various comments online where people are talking about the “block method” like it’s a chore, but it’s much less work in the long run. Honest!

The most important thing when drafting blocks is to measure yourself very accurately, and measure your block correctly as you’re drafting it out. Measuring something a few mm out when drafting a block could cause problems later on. So if in doubt, measure everything twice, and always use a pencil so you can rub things out!

What if you lose / gain weight?

You can adjust the block if it’s just a little bit, but if your figure changes by more than a few cm’s I’d recommend re-drafting your block. Once you’ve done a couple of blocks you’ll get much quicker at it so it won’t feel like such an enormous task.

Dot and cross paper makes it so much easier to draft blocks and make patterns, it’s worth investing in a roll. You can buy a few metres at a time on Ebay, but buying a roll works out so much cheaper in the long run. When making blocks you’re doing a lot of squaring out, i.e. drawing perpendicular horizontal and vertical lines, the dot and cross paper makes this easier and more importantly perfectly accurate. It’s also nice and thin to put pins through when you’re cutting out, but not so thin it rips!

A small roll of pattern paper (50m), which is enough to make quite a few patterns is a similar cost to a couple of commercial patterns, so you’ll save money in the long run too.

So where should you start?

A basic skirt block is the easiest block to draft, and where I’d start. Watch my video through first so you know what to expect, and then you can watch it again working through as you go.

Once you’ve mastered that you’ll have got your head around the basics, and hopefully keen to get on with your next block!

The fitted bodice and close fitting trouser blocks are probably the most complicated to draft, but they’re the basis for most of what we make. Just look at them a step at a time, and you don’t need to make them in one sitting! Just do a few steps at a time if you’re finding it hard.

Go to my Video's page for all my block drafting tutorials.

So what are the basic techniques to learn after you’ve made the blocks?

The basic techniques are based around moving seams and darts, adding ease, and adding volume through slash and spread. More complicated techniques like drafting collars or making cowl necks require a bit more skill.

Adding fullness is done using the slash and spread method (yes, a very strange term!), using circles and adding godets.

Quarter or half scale – should you use it?

Making things in miniature is a great way to practice designs, rather than using loads of paper and fabric, but don’t use it for fit then scale up, it’s not worth it.

I only use this with my mini mannequin if I want to try out a design and it would cost a lot in fabric, it’s great to practice the pattern cutting techniques and see if you like the design, but that’s as far as it goes for me, it’s very fiddly to sew clothes this small, and I think you need to see them on so you can really see how they look.

So, take a deep breath, get some pattern paper and a ruler and have a go at drafting your first block. Trust me, it’s really not as hard as it looks. And I promise you, if you have a go at one of my videos and get stuck, I always respond to comments if you have any questions.

So lets end with the Pro’s and cons:-

Pro’s

You don’t have to search for the design you like, or compromise.

Your clothes will fit perfectly.

You’ll save money in the long run.

You won’t need to keep fitting and adjusting during the making process.

You won’t need to make a sample first every time you try a new design.

Con’s

It’s a bit of a learning curve when you first start!

You’ll spend more time initially.

Your pattern won’t come with sewing instructions! – but my video’s do – Yay!