When you undertake a dressmaking project with your self drafted pattern, the biggest difference to working with a bought pattern is they don't come with instructions!
So what's the best way to plan your project to make sure it goes smoothly, so you end up with a perfect garment (and just as important) all your sanity intact!
There's nothing worse than getting half way through making something and realising you've forgotten to buy a zip, or you've run out of thread.... or when making up your garment you realise putting it together in a different order would have been a lot easier.
so.....
What do you need to buy?
What tools will you need?
Do you need to pre-treat the fabric?
Practise making buttonholes, seams and hems.
Work out the best order to sew it up.
What to buy.
Once you've decided on the main fabric you're going to use, you need to decide if you're going to line your garment, and if it needs any interlining. Interlining is a fabric that you can back your main fabric with to give it a bit more structure if needed. Depending on the design and fabric you might also need some interfacing for the neckline, collar, cuffs etc...
Do you need any bias binding, tape, ribbon or elastic for a neckline, waistband etc...
What kind of fastenings do you need? If you need a zip, what type is best for what you're making? Do you need any buttons, snaps or hooks and eyes?
And don't forget your thread. Think about the main thread you'll use, and if you need any different thread for topstitching. If you're overlocking / serging, make sure you buy plenty of thread for that!
What tools will you need?
Don't be tricked in to thinking you need loads of equipment, you really don't! I see lots of sewers on social media using rotary cutters, cutting boards, fabric weights, you really don't need all that, just pins and scissors is perfectly adequate. Do buy some great scissors though. Believe it or not, my scissors I first got as a gift in 1992 when I started college were only demoted to my back-up scissors a few years back.
Your sewing machine really doesn't need to be able to do anything fancy. If you've got the money then a computerised machine is lovely, but something basic is perfectly fine. You can get a much more professional finish if you have an overlocker, but I made clothes for years without one, and there was nothing wrong with them.
Make sure you've got some spare needles, you never know when you might have an accident!
The only other basic things you'll need are pins, hand sewing needle, iron and an unpicker. Chalk or a vanishing pen sometimes come in handy, but are certainly not essential.
Pre-wash / iron the fabric.
If your fabric looks like it might shrink when you first wash it, it's a good idea to wash it first. Make sure you wash it on the same cycle you're likely to wash it on in future. Also make sure it hasn't got any big creases or folds that might cause problems for you when cutting out.
Practise making buttonholes, seams and hems.
Just have a little play around with your fabric to make sure you're happy with what type of seams and hems you're going to use, and that you know the best tension and stitch size. If you're doing any topstitch, play around with that too.
If you're going to be making buttonholes it's a good idea to plan these before you start too.
Work out the best order to sew it up.
This might sound a bit obvious, but working out the best order before you start means less unpicking later on. Think about when you want to be overlocking and pressing seams, and if you'll be overlocking before or after you've sewn your seams.
At what stage is it best to put your zip in or do buttonholes?
Every project is going to be different, but here's a rough plan for the order of work.
Pre-wash / iron fabric if needed.
Cut all fabrics out.
Iron on any iron-on interfacings.
Stay stitch any edges that need fixing.
Add interlining layer.
Overlocking - although some might be done as you sew seams.
Darts.
Panel seams together
Put in the zip
Try it on! Always try on your garment along the way, even if your sample fitted, the real fabric might fit slightly differently.
Put the sleeves in.
Try it on again.
Bag out neck / armholes, make cuffs / collars / waistband etc...
Hems - try it on to double check the length.
Buttons / buttonholes.
Anything decorative.
Admire yourself in the mirror.
Hopefully this has helped you plan a project if you're new to sewing with your own patterns. Happy sewing, and please get in touch if you have any questions.
This is great, thanks so much. I get a mental block on the silliest things sometimes!